Posts Tagged ‘Monbetsu’

Driving to Monbetsu

Monday, December 22nd, 2008

I can’t remember where i heard or read this but someone once said that driving dilutes the travelling experience. The car shields the traveller from the full intensity of his surroundings. Whatever he perceives, the cacophony, the scents and even the sights, are watered-down.

Monbetsu - a different side to Hokkaido

Monbetsu - a different side to Hokkaido

That’s true to a certain extent. Just having the car gives me the option of staying within my comfort zone. I can beat a hasty retreat to my hotel when my energy flags. And i have to constantly remind myself to look out for gems hidden between destinations.

However this mobile haven can also enrich your experience.

Imagine touring with a 2000-litre Lowe Alpine pack that fits into your pocket and weighs nothing. If you peek into my car, you’re likely to see bags of snacks and bottles of water, fruit juice and even milk strewn all over the floor. Brochures, maps and guidebooks litter the backseat. I can even afford to bring a camera tripod along.

Most importantly, the car extends my reach, allowing me to explore out-of-the-way places that i’ll be forced to pass up due to time constraints.

That was how my wife and i ended up on a desolate breakwater in Monbetsu.

Sounkyo Gorge to Monbetsu

We had woken up to a drizzle on our second day at Sounkyo Gorge. That ruled out the cycling tour we planned.

Why waste the opportunity to explore the countryside since we had the car? So i planned a circuitous route which would take us to Monbetsu, Yubetsu, Abashiri, Kitami and back here at Hotel Northern Lodge.

We set off at 9am. For the first hour, we drove through the luscious mountains of central Hokkaido. Soon, the terrain became flatter and we emerged onto the coastal plains. We were surprised to find this part of Hokkaido covered with small farms.

The Sea of Okhotsk

At 1130am, we entered Monbetsu. If we hadn’t drive, we’d have to take a bus to Asahikawa and take another bus from there. The whole journey would have taken up to 5 hours easily.

We slowed to a crawl once we entered Monbetsu. I wanted to catch a glimpse of the Sea of Okhotsk. Its very name conjures up images of heaving Arctic swells scoured by winds from boundless Siberia.

Monbetsu is a fishing port and small factories and shops lined the waterfront. After circling back a couple of times, we pulled into a small road that led to the breakwater. We put on our hooded jackets and walked to the water’s edge. Somewhere, a sea gull screamed.

Looking into the misty depths of the Sea of Okhotsk

Looking into the misty depths of the Sea of Okhotsk

The sea was shrouded in impenetrable mist. I turned and looked towards Monbetsu. The sight of those grey buildings across the bay heartened me. A long time ago, people decided to call this place home and have since thrived here.

I inhaled deeply, filling my lungs with the cold, salty and slightly fishy air.

I took my wife’s hand and walked towards our car, eager to discover what else Hokkaido has to offer.

The Hokkaido 30-word Challenge

Saturday, December 20th, 2008

We went to a number of places in Hokkaido. These are my impressions of them…in less than 30 words.

New Chitose

Shopping galore at the Rera Outlet! Pick up your car at the many car rental companies there but good luck navigating to the highway.

Sapporo

Sapporo Biergarten: all the beer and barbecued lamb you'll ever need

Sapporo Biergarten: all the beer and barbecued lamb you'll ever need

Ramen Alley just behind my hotel. The Fender ’68 reissue Jap Strats that i almost bought. Crazy, reckless cyclists. Genghis Khan style barbecue lamb and beer at the Sapporo Biergarten.

Sounkyo Spa

Main pedestrian thoroughfare in Sounkyo Spa. The shop selling the best ramen we ate in Hokkaido is at the foot of this path.

Main pedestrian thoroughfare in Sounkyo Spa. The shop selling the best ramen is at the foot of this path.

Superb service and meals at Hotel Northern Lodge. Surprisingly, the best ramen of the trip. Tiring climb up Mt Kurodake. Rain, rain and more rain.

Monbetsu

In Monbetsu, we caught a glimpse of a blue-collar fishing port unlikely to feature in any holiday itinerary.

In Monbetsu, we caught a glimpse of a blue-collar fishing port unlikely to feature in any holiday itinerary.

Where is everyone?! A working fishing port. Grey and overcast. First sight of Sea of Okhotsk. Russian fisherman. Off the tourist trail.

Yubetsu

We didn't expect to see so much farmland in northern Hokkaido.

We didn't expect to see so much farmland in northern Hokkaido.

The Northern Fox. When we drove through the towns of northern Hokkaido, we hardly saw anyone in the streets. Surprising though, undulating farmlands can be found just inland.

Abashiri

Ralse Plaza, Abashiri, where we had our lunch.

Ralse Plaza, Abashiri, where we had our lunch.

We were quite surprised by the size of this city. It’s clearly an important port and boasts a famous Meiji-era prison which we didn’t visit. Lunch was again ramen.

Lake Akan

Our sumptuous dinner at Hotel Gozensui. You can\'t go wrong with their Japanese dinners.

Our sumptuous dinner at Hotel Gozensui. You can't go wrong with their Japanese dinners.

Friendly service and great food (dinner) at Hotel Gozensui. Canoeing in Lake Akan with our friendly guide. Marimo and Koi sightings in the lake.

Furano

Furano is famous for its lavender fields...and also skiing in winter.

Furano is famous for its lavender fields...and also skiing in winter.

[caption id="attachment_253" align="alignright" width="150" caption="This DIY farm at Furano conducts fun, hands-on workshops on cream, butter and ice-cream-making."]This DIY farm at Furano conducts fun, hands-on workshops on cream, butter and ice-cream-making.[/caption]Great fun making our own butter at a DIY farm. Look out for the beautiful lavender fields outside town. Superb boutique hotel – Natalux Hotel.

Kushiro

If there's one reason to go to Hokkaido, this is it.

If there's one reason to go to Hokkaido, this is it.

Two words: Robatayaki and sashimi. The best, freshest sashimi in the world is sold at the Washo Market!! Oh and by the way, delicious oyster ramen near Route Inn Kushiro.
Washo Market at Kushiro. Remember this place if you go to Kushiro.

Washo Market at Kushiro. Remember this place if you go to Kushiro.

[caption id="attachment_243" align="alignleft" width="150" caption="Katte-don: buy a bowl of rice and pick your own sashimi...heavenly."]Katte-don: buy a bowl of rice and pick your own sashimi...heavenly.[/caption]
Another must-try: the place with the blue-striped rooftop sells charcoal-grilled seafood (Robatayaki).

Another must-try: the place with the blue-striped rooftop sells charcoal-grilled seafood (Robatayaki).

[caption id="attachment_248" align="alignleft" width="150" caption="Seagull eyeing this man's catch at the Kushiro River."]Seagull eyeing this man's catch at the Kushiro River.[/caption]