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Climbing Mt Kurodake may not be as easy as i thought. But i’d have done better if i were more prepared.

The information and tips i provide here will prepare you for the climb and make it a more enjoyable experience.

What to expect at different seasons

Scenery on the way up Mt Kurodake

1. Spring (May to June) – Winter is over and flowers such as Rhododendron and Potentilla can be seen all over the slopes.

2. Summer (late June to August) – The bloom season of the alpine flowers is between early June to early August. The best time to see the Japanese Alpine Cherry is end June.

3. Autumn (late August to October) – In my opinion the best time to go if you’re looking for the colorful leaves of autumn. For the most beautiful autumn foliage, go between early September to early October.

4. Winter (November to April) – I’m not much of a ski fan but the ski slopes at Kurodake are suitable for skiing from early Nov onwards.

What to wear

Obviously i can only provide advice for summer.

1. T-shirt and track pants or 3/4s. The temperature was pretty warm (~28deg C) so you need not bring any outer clothings except for

2. A hooded, water-proof jacket or poncho as you can expect short, sporadic drizzles. Umbrellas can be loaned out at the 5th stage (see below) if you don’t mind lugging it along.

3. Minimally track shoes, preferably those with ankle support as you’ll be walking over boulders which can be slippery. A pair of water-proof trekking shoes (suede/leather) will be ideal.

4. Bring a cap in case it rains heavily. Wear it under the hood of your jacket and your face will be protected against the rain. This is a tried-and-tested tip i learnt during my time in the Army.

What to bring

1. A small haversack to stow miscellaneous items, e.g. camera, jacket. Bring a rain cover if your pack doesn’t come with one.

2. At least 1 litre of water per person. Those Japanese green tea sold in convenience stores all over Japan is a good choice. I brought only 500ml of water for both of us and had to ration it on the way up. Totally inexcusable.

In case you make the same silly mistake as i did, remember to buy some water at the convenience store at the 5th stage.

3. A pair of walking stick. We didn’t bring any but almost all the Japanese climbers had one of those extendable, Titanium ones. It’s useful but not vital.

4. Camera and water-proof bag for it.

5. Food. The other inexcusable omission. Seeing the Japanese munching their delicious-looking bentos and sandwiches really made me hungry. Bring a ground sheet if you’re bringing up a spread.

Read on for information on getting up Mt Kurodake.

When we finally reached the submit, it came as a surprise. We had just clambered over a particularly steep stretch littered with bigger boulders when we suddenly found ourselves in the open. At last the summit!

I looked around. Unlike its slopes which were dense with foliage, the peak of Mt Kurodake was a bare patch measuring roughly 50m by 80m littered with rocks and boulders. Small groups of climbers were scattered around – some taking photos, others having picnics.

We dropped our packs and started taking “me-at-the-summit” photos. In my excitement, i hadn’t pay much attention to the surrounding mountains. After the photos were taken, i walked to the edge of the summit.

To my great disappointment, the surroundings were completely shrouded in fog! Everywhere i looked, a thin, white, impenetrable mist hung in the air not more than 50m away from the edge of the peak. This was turning out to be an anti-climax. My wife didn’t say much but i could tell that she was just as disappointed as me.

We were reluctant to brave the trek down so soon. So she found herself a comfortable spot and rested while i wandered around taking pictures.

After fumbling around the peak with my camera and tripod for about an hour, i decided that it was time to go down the mountain. The foot of Mt Kurodake was still a good 2.5 hrs away (yes i said 1.5hrs earlier. I’ll explain in my next post) and this was supposed to be our morning stroll. I would take one last photo before we go down. I clambered over some boulders to a part of the summit where i hadn’t been to. And that’s when our luck turned.

The fog lifted without warning and all of a sudden, i found myself looking at rocky mountains and ice-covered valleys. It was as if a curtain had been lifted and the view, framed by the swirling, fast-retreating fog, was eeriely beautiful.

Our fellow climbers were just as excited. Some of them packed up immediately and hiked down a steep trail connecting the ridges of the surrounding mountains. This trail had led into the misty unknowns minutes earlier. I snapped away furiously with my camera and recorded some videos. Now i can tell the folks back home what Mt Kurodake’s all about.

Finally it was time to go.

The trek down was much easier and faster but more punishing on our knees and ankles. In the days to come, we would both suffer from the aftereffects of this climb. But it was worth it.

In my next post, i’ll share some information and lessons learnt on climbing up Mt Kurodake. Stay tuned.